With approximately 450 figures to base for my Pickett's Charge Project, it's time to make the important decision whether to spray the figures with a gloss finish, or use a matt/flat finish. I've heard that some people use both, starting with a gloss coating on the figure and followed up with a spritz of Dull Cote or similar spray matt finishes. I did a test figure using the gloss/matte method and while it looked alright, some of the gloss shine was coming through the matte layer.
Gloss looks good on my Ancients and Sudan figures, but I kind of lean towards a matte finish for the American Civil War for some reason.
I'm wondering what the great Hive Mind has to say about the choice of finishes on my ACW figures.
Leave your responses in the comments section below, please.
I say gloss. I gloss all of my figures. I like the "shiny toy soldier" look. I double gloss actually, it protects the figures better than matte as well.
ReplyDeleteThe protective properties of gloss finish are a compelling reason to go glossy.
DeleteYes, mat over gloss will usually result in a semi -gloss or semi-matt. I actually like that kind of finish. if you want a natural finish you could also aim for semi-gloss on leather items and even skin, which can have a slight sheen, especially if it is hot! It is also appropriate for horses that look kind of dead with absolutely flat finish. I have found that some brush on mats (maybe Vallejoy) will give mat look over the gloss or semi gloss. Some of my figures I do finish like this and gloss armor and even eyes.
ReplyDeleteHowever, when I got into 'Funny Little Wars. I noticed many players go for a gloss look. I decided that semi-gloss was a compromise as I find a full gloss a little jarring as it reflects so much light it distracts from detail (maybe a good thing with some people's paint jobs) and also contrasts with the mat terrain. The advantage of gloss is it is a tougher finish. With plastics I use acrylic finishes as plastic is flexible and enamel less so. One drawback with enamel mat varnishes is they tend to yellow over the years. This doesn't seem to happen with the art fixatives, although they have a semi mat finish.
I use acrylic paint for everything, even when I refurbish my old hollow cast Britains. And then I spray them with gloss spray which gives the appearance of having used gloss paint or enamels.
DeleteI think that I'm convinced about using gloss at least for a base coat (and then spraying matt over the gloss anyway if I decide that I want to go with the matt look).
I generally only gloss metal, but for the final coat, everything I do get’s a mat varnish final layer.
ReplyDeleteI once read that a collector player did this and when he noticed shiny bits showing through, it was an indication of the mat coat wearing and he would apply another thin layer - hough I suspect this would only be an issue on the raised and most touched parts of a figure.
There is a figure painter who is presently using the halfway house of Satin varnish, to get an attractive sheen, it certainly keep colours vibrant and helps the figures to ‘pop’, though these are on a much smaller scale figure, so I don’t know how it would translate across the ranges.
I might have to run a test of Satin varnish on a couple of figures to see how that method looks. I've heard a similar story about the collector, although I wonder if it is something of an urban legend. We all tend to think that metal figures need to be washed to removed the "mould release agent", but then casters have told me that they use no such thing.:)
DeleteGloss every time for durability and aesthetic reasons too.
ReplyDeleteAlan Tradgardland
Thank you Alan, those are good points.
DeleteWhilst I am usually a ‘shiny gloss toy soldier’ advocate for traditional toy soldiers, as you say somehow the American Civil War and the style of painting and poses of your figures (along with homespun) seems to suit a Matt varnish.
ReplyDeleteThe "ACW look" is what is causing the indecisiveness in me.
DeleteAs you may know I gloss everything but in this case I think matt seems appropriate to the ACW.
ReplyDeleteHowever another factor is that you buy special figures for vignettes, commanders, etc. What finish do they come in? Would you want to change those or paint the plastics multitudes to match their finish?
Stephen
Good point, the Britain's vignettes come in a matt finish that looks very good. The look of the Britains figures is what nudges me slightly in the direction of matt finish for everything.
DeleteGloss for me always except for WW2. Colin
ReplyDeleteInteresting. What is it about WW2 that makes you go with matt finish?
DeleteWhen I completed my 60mm medieval Jim I glossed the lot. It made the colours really stand out and also helped with handling.
ReplyDeleteI did the same for my Ancients and I thought that they looked great. As you say, gloss helps the colors pop out. Maybe the more muted colors of ACW uniforms leads to the other direction.
DeleteAll varnishes take time to cure so it sounds like the semi-gloss result from your test figure was due to the gloss not having cured. I use polyurethane gloss varnish and leave it at least 7 days before applying a matte coat. Even the AK Interactive acrylic varnishes have a minimum 12 hour cure cycle.
ReplyDeleteI use gloss (floor wax variety). My first concern is durability, and hard acrylic gloss is always stronger than matte as a sealant. The sheen does not bother me and is not excessive.
ReplyDeleteFor better or for worse, I’ve decided to give the figures a base coat of gloss and then to give them a spritz of matt coating.
ReplyDeleteGo matt. Gloss is for chocolate-box toy soldiers in rigid ranks. Matt is for gritty, rough and tumble types.
ReplyDeleteMy original armies from the 70's and 80's were sprayed with gloss varnish, and they remain in good shape. At the time I was aiming for the toy soldier look, and to provide them with maximum protection. These armies are Ancients and Napoleonics. My current armies, War of the Austrian Succession/Seven Years War are Richard Ansell figures, and my current aim is for a more realistic look, with shading and more details, so have opted for a matt finish. For more durability I apply a satin varnish and then apply the matt overtop and I really like the finish. I am using Winsor and Newton, and although I can not comment on durability, the finish gives an almost velvety look.
ReplyDeleteMy original metal armies, now we are talking back in the mid to late 1970's and 80's were all block painted and given the fashionable high gloss finish. They are predominantly Ancients and Napoleonics. It is noteworthy to add that they have remained in very good shape (other than one unit that seems to have a bit of the old lead disease - eg a few plumes of gray fuzz on the surface, which I believe may be a problem with the lead alloy used at the time). My current project is War of the Austrian Succession/Seven Years War and I have opted to go for shading and a more realistic aesthetic. This is in no small part because I am using Richard Ansell's sculpts and they call out for detail and I am attempting to do them justice. For the varnish I am using Winsor and Newton satin, followed by a second coat of Winsor and Newton matt. The result is an almost velvety finish which I really like. The real answer regarding gloss or matt depends on the aesthetic. It is entirely an individual matter of taste but to me if the miniatures are block painted, more like toy soldiers then the gloss finish looks great, a paint job with more shading and 'realism' seems to call out for a matt finish. At the end of the day if you are pleased with the result then it is all worthwhile!
ReplyDeleteOld Pretender