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| "Carthago Delenda Est! |
The cobblestone mat is made by Cigar Box Battle Mats and I made the buildings from scratch. It is kind of fun to move the various citizens around the game table and set up new vignettes.
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| The Roman town is growing! |
With Little Wars coming up soon (April 24-27, 2025 in Lisle, Illinois) it is time to put the metal to the peddle and really focus on getting my Hannibal terrain finished. I also have one 32-figure unit of Italian allies to paint.
A number of my Roman houses were only partly finished. They needed painting and the attaching of their roof and I had been putting off this task over the past month. The building shown below is probably the most complicated structure that I have built so far. The deck/balcony requires extra work and precision fitting of its components. At the last minute I also decided to add the little structure tacked onto the second floor of the building (shown on the left side of the below picture). It took me two hours just to make this small add-on piece. Yikes!
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| My favorite and most difficult building, so far. |
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| The unfinished version of the building model. |
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| The finished version of the model. This is the local Taberna. The innkeeper is standing on the balcony overseeing events going on in the town. I still need to glue the balcony rails to the deck. I will do these last after attaching the roof to the model. |
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| One of the citizens walking down one of the narrow streets of the city. The aqueduct arches are shown on the right hand side. |
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| I like this picture of the citizen walking down the narrow street. I should have done some editing with the light in the photo. |
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| The two buildings on the left and middle were finished yesterday. The third building in the distance on the right is actually a facade of a building. I added a rectangular structure behind the facade to give it 3D depth. |
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| Lady Hagatha suspects that her hubby is up to no good. What could she be looking at? |
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| Marcus is going to have some explaining to do! A small Roman bath. |
I hope to find the time to start on the local temple this weekend. I bought a lot of wedding cake Roman columns to use on this model.
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| The 1/32 scale (54mm) Arch constructed by Fritzious Magnus |
Every Roman city of repute must have its own triumphal arch located in the center of the city. It is an iconic Roman look and so I decided to build an arch for my growing 1/32 scale (for 54mm soldiers) city.
I based my arch somewhat on the Arch of Titus in Rome. See below:
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| The Arch of Titus |
Materials Needed
1/2-inch foam core board (purchased from Blick's artist supplies store)
1/4-inch foam core board
Balsa wood of various sizes
Wood trim that I found at Home Depot
Coins (pennies and dimes) to use as images of leaders found on the sides of such structures
Sewing pins
1/2-inch wide masking tape
Circle Template (found in art supply stores or Michaels Stores)
Hot Glue Gun
Wood Glue
Box cutter knife
Exacto knife and Exacto mitre box and mitre saw set
Construction Details
The walls and roof are made from foam core board which at 1/2-inch thick is sufficiently strong to withstand any rough handling or storage/transport from my house to the game convention site.
Front walls: 9-inches wide by 8-inches high
Arch: 2-1/2 inches measured in from each edge of the foam core board and 5-1/2 inches to the high point in the arc of the arch.
Side walls: 4-inches wide by 8-inches high
Roof: a piece of 1/4-inch foam core board cut to dimensions that will give it a 1/2-inch over hang once the four walls are assemble. Another piece of 1/2-inch thick foam core board will later be attached to the top of the roof to provide structural support for the cornice trim on the top edges of the arch.
Trim for the cornice and columns: I found some really useful pieces of miniature wood trim at Home Depot. It is hard to describe what they are and how they look, but they provide a classical look to the arch. You can find these in the area where ceiling moulding and floor trim are found in the store.
Constructing the Arch
The first step is cutting out the wall pieces from the 1/2-inch foam core board. I recommend using a metal T-Square tool to ensure that you get straight cuts in the material. Once I pencil out the cutting lines, I remeasure everything to make sure that the dimensions are true and correct. Then I place the metal T-Square along one of the drawn lines and cut the board with your box cutter. Do not use any of the Exacto knives for this process. The box cutter provides a neatly cutting whereas the Exacto knife can result in a rough looking cut with chunks of foam cut out the board.
Next, I take some of my sewing pins and stick the four walls together to see how the structure will look. I then raise one of the walls a little bit so that the sewing pins are still sticking into the foam. I apply a liberal amount of hot glue and then push the pieces together. I do this for each edge of the walls that are being glued together. Next, I pry the sewing pins part way out of the foam core board and snip off the flat head of the pin with a wire cutter. Then I push the pin back into the board to provide support for the glue join.
Following this, I cut a piece of roof from 1/8-inch foam core board, making sure that this roof piece overlaps the edge of the walls by 1/2-inch.
Attaching the cornices and columns
Here are some close up pictures of the trim pieces. They are all 1/2-inch wide.
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| Close up view of the trim piece used for the vertical columns on the front and rear sections of the arch. Note the Lincoln penny that I glued to the board. |
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| Here you can see the three different trim designs that I found at Home Depot. The beaded trim is glued horizontally and abuts the 1/4-inch foam core board overhang. Then the trim piece that resembles a vertical column is glued to the arch and abuts the beaded trim. Finally, a piece of dental moulding is glued to the top of the foam core board to provide the crown of the arch. |
All of the wood trim pieces are attached to the walls of the arch using wood glue. Hot glue is messy and I have found that sometimes the glue doesn't stick and the piece eventually falls off. Wood glue will attach the pieces permanently and it sets in about five minutes.
The tedious part of the trim assembly occurs when the pieces of trim are cut. I used the mitre box and mitre saw for this and cut the pieces at a 45-degree angle so that they fit together seamlessly. Exacto makes a nice miniature mitre box and saw and I use it on many of my building construction projects.
Be sure to measure the trim pieces at the same length as of roof section. Anything less will result in a gap where the pieces should join together. I learned this the hard way and had to throw out several pieces of trim that I had cut. Also, double and triple check to make sure that you are cutting the mitre angles on the rear side of the trim rather than on the front side of the trim. I made this mistake several times. Doh!!!
The bead moulding under the roof overhang is easy to do as you have two surfaces to glue together ( the wall side and the over hang piece. I use wood glue for this.
The crown piece, or dentile moulding, is glued to the top of the roof. I begin by laying out the four pieces of wood together on the roof. Then I use some sewing pins as guides for the location of the pieces. I stick the pins into the inside edge of the wood moulding so that when I glue the wood to the foam core board, I have a guide for its placement. Once the guide pins are in place, I glue the crown moulding pieces to the top of the roof. After the pieces are glued together I stick more pins into the inside edge of the moulding to help it stay in place.
The final stage of the roof cornice sections is to cut out a piece of 1/2-inch foam core board that will fit inside the four edges of crown moulding (5-1/2 inches wide by 9-1/2 inches long). I use hot glue to attach the piece to the top of the roof. This insert piece abuts the the interior of the crown moulding and provides extra strength to the crown. Without this, there is too much free standing wood on top of the roof that could break off with rough handling. Since the insert fits snuggly against the crown moulding, it is like adding a support wall that will prevent any breakage.
Adding details on the walls
The next step is to add some details to the walls of the arch that fill in some of the blank wall areas and give the arch a finer look. I use Lincoln pennies and Roosevelt dimes and glue them onto the wall with hot glue. I place Lincoln on the front and back sides and Roosevelt on the sides. I actually place two dimes on the side: Roosevelt's head and the reverse side ( I forget what it is called; phalange?).
Once the coins are painted over and dry brushed with white paint, the heads will be picked out and easy to see. However the paint softens the head image so that it looks like some Roman dude rather than an American president.
I cut pieces of balsa wood to make a frame over the top of the arch opening. The frame measures 4-inches wide by 1-inch high.
I use wood glue to attach the pieces to the surface of the foam core board on the arch. Usually the arch would have some words within this frame, either identifying the emperor that built the arch or it might have "SPQR" engraved inside the frame.
The side walls use a similar frame of balsa wood, but these are larger at 3-inches wide by 6-inches high.
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| Balsa wood frame with two dimes glued inside the frame, Note also the piece of wood at the base of the model. This base kind of ties everything together. |
The final construction step is to glue a piece of bass wood or balsa wood around the base of the arch, as shown in the picture above.
Basically, any join that involves pieces of wood should use wood glue and any join that puts two pieces of foam core board uses hot glue.
The finishing touches: painting the model
Now that all of the bits and bobs are glued together, it is time to paint your model. I use "chalk paint" that you can purchase from Michaels or purchase on line from Plaid Paints. Don't ask me why I use chalk paint, just trust me that it looks better/more realistic than acrylic paint. I used three coats of paint on the arch, largely to hide the primer paint that I used on the arch. I reasoned that primer should cover the wood bits and the coins before I could paint them. A light grey primer is the best color because grey sort of looks like stone. On other buildings I don't use primer, just painting over the surface of the foam core board.
The final part of the painting, of course, is dry brushing the model with a lighter color. Use dry brushing sparingly because it makes the details "pop out" from the darker undercoat. During each stage of painting, I use my finger to wipe the paint from the coins, otherwise the two or three coats of paint will obscure the images on the coins. It is only when the highlight color is dry brushed to the surface that I don't wipe off the paint.
That pretty much finishes the arch model. I want the "SPQR" letters inside the frames above the arches. I don't trust my freehand painting skills enough to hand paint the letters, so I will either find images on line to down load onto paper or maybe use Word software to print out the letters in the correct size. The paper will be glued to the surface using spray on rubber cement (spray the paper with glue, not the surface).
Here are some pictures of the finished arch (sans the SPQR lettering) shown in situ in my Roman town.
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| The finished arch. Note the sections of aqueduct in the background. I made those prior to making the arch and they gave me practice in making arch openings similar to that of the triumphal arch. |
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| A view of the town center, or forum, showing the location of the arch. I think that the arch really improves the visual look of my Roman town. The cobblestone mat is made by Cigar Box Battle Mats. |
You can see that there are a number of buildings that are in various stages of "work in progress". The black models still require some final assembly and painting. The two larger buildings on the right hand side of the picture need to have their roof tiles painted so that they look like the tiles on the building on the lower right hand side of the picture. Herb Gundt made that building for 28mm figures and I have used some of the buildings that he made for my long ago Late Roman Project as templates and ideas for my large 1/32 scale Roman building models.
The cobblestone surface in the town is a Cigar Box Battle Mat that I purchased recently. The civilian figures are a mostly from King & Country in Hong Kong and they are 1/30 scale (about 60mm), but I find that they fit rather nicely with my 54mm figures. The Egyptian Obelisk was purchased from the New York Art Museum on line store.
Conclusion
I know that there aren't too many of my readers that will have a need for 1/32 scale building models, but I thought that the step by step construction tutorial would transfer easily to smaller 28mm models. On the other hand, there are quite a few laser cut Roman buildings that are available from some of the more notable and usual providers of such things. I really like the Sarissa models that are sold though Footsore Miniatures in the UK. Click on the link below. I only wish that Sarissa made some of these models in 1/32 scale, but I know that there is a limited market for models in my size.
My Roman town continues to grow. I need more apartment buildings and then I would like to tackle a temple with columns or a Roman bath building.
salve!
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| Carthaginian elephants with light skirmishers providing protection. 54mm HaT Industrie figures that I painted |
Click on the pictures to enlarge.
Double click to make them REALLY large
Yesterday I entered three games for the upcoming HMGS Midwest Little Wars convention. The show will be held from April 24 to 27, 2005 at the Sheraton Lisle Naperville hotel (3000 Warrenville Road, Lisle, IL). This is the same hotel venue as last year.
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| Hannibal and his retinue. These are metal figures from John Jenkins Designs. |
I am running three 54mm Hannibal! games during the convention:
Thursday April 24, 2025 Scenario TBD
Friday April 25, 2025 Battle of Zama
Saturday April 26, 2025 Battle of Zama
Here is a link to the HMGS Little Wars convention web site where you can get more information. Game sign up begins on April1, 2025 at Noon CDT (Chicago time).
As with my two previous 54mm convention games (Khartoum and Pickett's Charge), I hope to have three tables 6ft by 15ft running parallel to each other. The games at this convention and at Historicon in July 2025 will be the third part of the 54mm Big Game Trilogy that I have hosted over the past three years. After this year, I will retire the large 54mm games for a year of two and go back to hosting smaller 28mm games.
The first game on Thursday evening will feature a general encounter between Republican Roman and Carthaginian forces somewhere in Italy. The game will include elephants, of course, so it is not the recreation of any particular battle since Hannibal had lost all of his elephants while crossing the Alps.
The Friday and Saturday games will recreate my version of the Battle of Zama. The battle is to Hannibal as Waterloo was to Napoleon, a final defeat that followed a string of famous victories.
Preparations
I was going to include a Roman town on one of the corner areas of the game tables, but I think that it might take up too much table space and interfere with the movement of troops. Instead, I will have several Italian farm houses set up on a corner of each of the two back tables in my game. I am also working on the construction of a Roman aqueduct that will span the entire width of the three game tables. The aqueduct will be set up on one of the table edges. I have five feet of aqueducts in various stages of completion so I have another six feet of structures to build from scratch.
My Roman army has three Roman legions and one Italian allies legion. I need to paint one more set of 32 figures to complete the Italian legion. Other than that, my painting of units is complete and I have shifted my time over to terrain building.
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| Two of the three units that comprise one Italian legion. HaT 54mm figures that I painted recently. |
I now have a bunch of Roman buildings in various states of construction that I probably will not need for either of the two conventions this year. What to do with them? My thought is to continue modeling 54mm buildings and over time, build a complete city that will fit on a 6ft by 12 ft table in my basement. This way I can add a few bits here and there over time and end up with something fantastic. This is sort of how a model railroader constructs his train layout.
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| A view of the town from across the river. You can see the "shells" of the aqueduct pieces at the rear of the city. The black buildings are works in progress and need to be finished. |
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| A view of the city from another direction. |
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| Another view of the town forum. You can see the start of a basilica structure (white foam core board) at the top end of the forum. |
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| The carpenter's workshop |
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| Dockside in the town |
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| The town forum or central square in the city. |
The table mat is made by Cigar Box Battle Mats and these are a recent addition to my table top set up. The mat looks really great, but I wish that the company had the option to order it with grey stones rather than the earth tones used on this mat. Despite that, I like the mat because now I don't have to make city roads. I just lay all of my buildings on top of the mat.
I am considering creating a scenario called "Who Killed Julius Caesar?" that is based on the board game "Clue" (or "Cluedo" as it is known in the UK). I am working on some other ideas for skirmish style gaming events inside the town. The Gangs of Rome rules look a bit complicated for my taste so I will write my own Roman Skirmish Game Rules in the future. The idea is to have something that uses the many civilian figures that I have accumulated in recent years.
You can never have too many pictures of 54mm (1/32 scale) elephants. These were ones that I painted in 2024.
More later...
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| Stillwater was not very quiet today. We might have to call it The Stillwater Massacre because so many British, Loyalists and Mohawk warriors died. |
Click on the pictures to enlarge
Last evening we invited two couples to our home for dinner and an AWI skirmish war game. None of them had ever played in a war game, but they knew about my hobby and they were all keen to give it a try. So I had five "newbies" and myself playing in the game. The scenario was a simple Indian/British/Loyalist raid on a patriot town, Stillwater, in upstate New York near Saratoga.
I had my own set of skirmish rules "Croat Terror" that I adapted to the AWI (Croats = Indians; Prussians = British; Militia = Militia; Loyalists = Frei Corps, etc.). It looked easy enough, but then at the last minute (90 minutes before the arrival of the guests) I decided that even my easy to learn skirmish rules had too many charts and might overwhelm a newcomer to the hobby. I recall playing a Sword and Flame game for the first time and all of the charts made my head spin.
So I wrote a new set of skirmish rules on the fly, based on rolling only D6 dice. The rules fit on one side of an 8 x 5 inch index card. I put the rules on one side of the card and the individual personality traits and missions on the other side of the card. That's it!
Here is a picture of the rules
By the way, if you click on the image of the rules they will enlarge sufficiently that they can be easily read. Feel free to use these rules.
As the game went on I decided to scrap the morale rules and forgot to use the card suit outcomes for the melees; if you had the high card in a one on one melee then the opponent was killed.
Each player had a particular mission to accomplish. I pasted their respective missions onto the back side of the index card. Here is an example:
I was Joseph Brant and I failed miserably in achieving my objectives. I captured two civilian prisoners, but then I forgot about the part about having minimal casualties. Thirteen out of twenty-four of my warriors were killed. I think that the tribe will be looking for a new chief. In the heat of the battle I got so caught up in shooting at the militia that I forgot about minimizing my casualties. Fog of war.
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| The cornfield was a bad place to be if you were an Indian warrior or a British regular. |
The British commander, Major Payne, had a mission of finding the British spy in the town and escorting him to safety, back at the British camp. While I advised Major Payne to look for a church pastor, the good Major was standing next to the pastor and escorted the nearest civilian back to safety. I told the Major that he had carried off the wrong person and that he might need to go back and retrieve the correct person. Fog of war. The Major and I had a good laugh over that.
Who needs Fog of War rules when you can usually count on the players in the game to provide their own Fog of War.
Some Brunswick Jagers had the acumen to go and retrieve the pastor and bring him back to camp, so at least one player was paying attention. LOL.
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| The Brunswick Jaegers bring home the right man. |
Everyone seemed to have a good time (and why wouldn't they?) and by the third turn they were starting to get a handle on how the rules worked. It was a good call on my part to write a simpler set of rules prior to the start of the game given that all of the players were new to war gaming. Everyone expressed an interest in coming back in the future and playing another war game.
Mission Accomplished.
