Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Lobosch Hill Part II

Here is the model Lobosch Hill that I made for our Lobositz game.

Here is a picture of the actual Lobosch Hill in the Czech Republic

My Lobosch Hill model is almost complete now. The spackle dried overnight and so I gave the terrain a light dry brushing of tan paint in order to pick out the raised highlights created by the spackle paste.

The next step was to mix some white PVA glue (Elmer's Glue in the USA) with water and brush the white mix over sections of the model. You want to work in small areas so that the surface of the glue remains even. Then I sprinkled mixed turf flock from Woodlands Scenics over the sections of glue and worked my way around the model until the flocking was completed. I tried to leave some areas unflocked so that it would look like the rocks were showing through the green vegitation. As the picture of the real ground indicates above, most of the hill is green.

Tomorrow I will spray diluted white glue over the surface to afix the flock even more, and then give it a spray of dull coat. The thinned down glue and dull coat should keep most of the flock on the model, from my experience. This was a relatively easy project to do and I am sort of tempted to whip out a quick Homolka Mound model to use at the other end of the table. We shall see. I have a lot of figures that need to have their bases terrained, so that comes first.


  1. A lpt of work for sure, but fully rewarded by the result: compliments!

  2. Jim,

    It looks quite good to me . . . and certainly echoes the real thing.

    -- Jeff

  3. What a whopper ! Nice hill

    -- Allan

  4. Quite good looking. I can't wait to see some gaming photographs. You are one of the most productive busy-beavers I know.

  5. One of our discoveries is using larger terrain pieces changes the look and play of a game. There is nothing wrong with a 6"x6" hill. Honest. On the other hand using a ridge 24"x48" or DerAlte's Lobosch Hill is a new and appealing kettle of fish. If one can combine height of more than an inch or so, the whole is accentuated as well.

    Climbing, descending and completely hiding (can't see 'em)respectively up, down and behind adds new somethings that are nice.

    In so doing one can use the actual height of terrain and the actual height of a miniature to determine how much of a miniature can be seen. No conventions needed other than what your line of sight eyeball can determine.

    Good work Der Alte,

  6. An excellent piece to dominate the tabletop battlefield!

  7. This is insane Fritz...it is HUGEEE!!! Awesome work.

  8. Nice job, Alte. I think I'll have to steal that applying the flock a little by little idea.